On The Yu Prize — Rouge Magazine

Wendy Yu, an investor, philanthropist, and the current Curator in Charge at the Met’s Costume Institute, is behind a new program for emerging Chinese designers. Her main motive is to encourage these young talents to design sustainably and ethically, as she agrees that “fashion today has a wider role and responsibility, and this is something [she wants] to capture through the prize,”(Farra, 2021).

There will be one finalist announced this Spring who will be awarded $150,000 and whose collection will be available at luxury department store Harrods. Yu and her team have selected an impressive number of 16 finalists, as the original plan of 12 finalists didn’t quite cover the range of talented submissions they received. While each designer brought their own distinctive and brilliant perceptions of sustainability to life, keep reading to see which Yu Prize finalists caught our eyes.

1. 8on8

Brand founder Li Gong went from studying business in Ningbo, China to aspiring towards a fashion career in London. His fusion of sharp british tailoring with a lean towards retro futurism results in looks that cannot be overlooked.

2. Danshan

This emerging menswear brand is made up by a Chinese woman, Dan, and a man, Shan, from Hong Kong. Together, they design clothes that observe gender dynamics in China, as well as challenge the social boundaries that continue to restrict individuals.

3. Oude Waag

Jingwei Yin started his brand Oude Waag in 2017 and has seen impressive growth ever since. Yin’s philosophy when it comes to his designs is to “celebrate the power of women, yet simultaneously critique the ongoing objectification and idealisation of the body,” (Williams, 2018). This look stood out particularly, with Yin’s pops of lime green balancing the skirt’s drapery and black symmetrical, strappy bodice.

4. Ming Ma

Not long after the Wuhan-born designer created his brand Ming Ma, a major shopping platform by the name of Labelhood took notice of his great talent and offered his first collection to be sold there. This exposure led Ma to a debut at Shanghai Fashion Week in 2018, where he showcased beautiful designs appreciating modern femininity. He has kept with this theme, as his latest collection is full of airy, romantic silhouettes and delicate stitching that Yu and her team wanted to praise.

5. Shie Lyu

After studying finance in Australia then earning two fashion management Master's degrees in Tokyo, Shie Lyu decided to focus on her life-long dream of designing. After years of experimenting with her designs, Lyu “cultivated an interest in non-traditional, and especially biodegradable materials that helped pave the way for her label,” (Meng, 2020). Her upcycled looks set a stunning example of what sustainable fashion should be. Fun printed fabrics, fitted caps, mesh stockings, and secondhand sequins overlays are just a few elements that prove Lyu’s extraordinary talent.

6. Shushu / Tong

This Shanghai-based duo “paints a portrait of modern girlhood” and draws senses of intimacy and dreaminess through their designs (Suen, 2018). Similar to Ming Ma’s breakthrough, designers Lei and Jiang caught the attention of Labelhood, which hosted Shushu / Tong’s first presentation in 2016. Following their debut, Lei and Jiang’s collections have been made available at main retailers such as Dover Street Market and Lane Crawford. Their eccentric and nostalgic style empowers customers to dress boldly and solely for themselves.

We can't wait to see what these upcoming designers have in store. If you want to be blown away by more stunning pieces, make sure to check out the other 6 Yu Prize finalists here.

Sources:

https://www.vogue.com/article/wendy-yu-prize-emerging-designers-china

https://www.ordre.com/en/news/chinese-fashion-designer-shanghia--902

https://radiichina.com/china-designers-shie-lyu/

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Graphics by: Lauren Skeen