The Aftermath of Fashion Week Season: Designers that Shook Up the Scene

Before we say a final farewell to this season’s fashion weeks, here’s a roundup of the most memorable shows who made waves this season and set trends that will undoubtedly make up our spring and summer 2022 wardrobes. Hosiery, strong silhouettes, strategic cutouts, bright and neutral colors, and retro touches are some common themes that were seen in collections by the world’s hottest designers.

Nensi Dojaka

Dojaka, an Albanian-born and London-raised designer, was one of the most anticipated designers to take the runway this season. Fresh off her win of the LVMH prize and new popularity among celebrities like Rita Ora and Dua Lipa, Dojaka worked with sheer fabrics and tulle to create silhouettes that were sensual but still high fashion. The cutouts and fitted clothing, as well as her staple playful hosiery and kitten heels, echoed this year’s fashion week trends.

Harris Reed

Harris Reed was also super anticipated this year and used repurposed wedding dresses to create his first salon-style presentation. The collection, named “demi-couture” by Reed, also played around with silhouettes and drapery. Reed aimed to follow Alessandro Michele for gender fluidity and non-conformity in his pieces.

Olivier Rousteing for Balmain

Although Rousteing has been with Balmain since 2011, his spring 2022 show drew attention through its versatile looks. Rousteing juxtaposed looks with casual silhouettes and luxurious drapery with fitted bikini-style tops and hip cutouts seen across the board this season. The designs were sensual, trendy, and elevated, making Rousteing more revolutionary than ever — showing off his talent amidst challenges as a black man in a French fashion house and overcoming his injuries acquired in a serious fire last year.

Natalia Alaverdian for A.W.A.K.E. Mode

Alaverdian noted her elevator pitch for this collection: “Dutch merchants meeting Japanese shores.” This inspiration is evident in the clothing and makes it one of the most unique collections out there. Alaverdian is known for her 1970s influence, as she added geometric patterns and layers to her pieces. Asymmetric layering, neutral colors, volumized shoes, and oversized accessories solidified Alaverdian’s trademark style in the fashion community.

Edvin Thompson for Theophilio

Thompson, a Jamaican-American designer, is known for designs with an “island feel and a Brooklyn heart,” and this collection was no different. This collection embodied summer styles by also giving a nod to Jamaican culture through the use of red, green, black, and yellow stripes. Playing with leather, knits, and denim, this playful collection showcased what Thompson wanted people to feel and gave a meaningful ode to his heritage.

Akua Shabaka and Rebecca Henry for House of Aama

Shabaka and Henry first entered the scene in 2017, and this year they continued their use of Creole influence in their collection. Playing with bright colors, knits, denim, and circle skirts, this mother-daughter duo used Creole and Victorian inspiration alongside their own experiences to curate a memorable show. This collection followed major trends seen in other collections this season — such as abdominal and hip cutouts, bright colors, knits, leotards, and drapery — but looked different and stood out in its execution.

Graphics by: Keller McLaughin