Unbuttoning the Bias: What dress codes really say about us
Dress codes are everywhere – from school hallways to office cubicles – often framed a neutral guidelines meant to promote professionalism or reduce distractions. But let us be honest: they are not only about clothes. They are about control.
Supporters argue that regulating clothing and appearance helps maintain a focused learning environment, free from disruptions. But in practice, these frameworks conceal the social and political implications. They disproportionately target female, self-expressive and minority students, reinforcing outdated norms and silencing individuality.
Take Eliana Dockterman, who was sent home for wearing leggings under a dress. The issue was not her outfit; it was the way her body was perceived. Her male classmates, who made inappropriate comments, faced no consequences. This double standard is too common. Dress codes often shift the burden of male behavior onto girls, reinforcing a culture of body shaming and victim-blaming.
Fashion is more than clothing – it is a form of expression. It communicates identity, beliefs and cultural belonging. The First Amendment protects freedom of speech and expression, yet many dress codes contradict that principle.
The Supreme Court case Tinker v. Des Moines Independent School District (1969) reshaped the common judicial standard around expression. Mary Beth Tinker and other students were suspended for wearing black armbands to protest the Vietnam War. The Supreme Court ruled that public school students have the right to express opinions, so long as it does not disrupt school operations or infringe on others’ rights.
Still, many school dress codes continue to restrict forms of expression with cultural and personal significance. Hair-based policies, for example, often target students of color.
In 2023, Texas passed the CROWN Act, which prohibits discrimination based on cultural hairstyles.
The case of Darryl George in 2024 – a Black student in Texas suspended for wearing locs – shows how dress codes can manifest as racial conformity. Despite CROWN Act protections, George was denied exemption and removed from class, highlighting how dress codes reflect outdated norms rooted in Eurocentric standards. Even when framed as neutral, these policies often penalize expressions of cultural identity.
After rowing up in a culturally diverse school district with no formal dress code, I was taught to see clothing as a form of self-expression rather than something to be policed. My peers wore hairstyles, garments, and accessories that reflected their identities, making our classrooms rich with diversity and expression.
From gendered enforcement to racialized restrictions, dress codes in schools do more harm than good. They silence individuality, reinforce outdated norms, and target those who already face systemic barriers. Policies like these only strengthen my commitment to pursuing a career in fashion law, where I can advocate for transparency and equity in spaces that have historically silenced marginalized voices.
Fashion isn’t just about what we wear. It’s about who gets to wear it – and who gets to decide.
Editor: Sydney Annis
Graphic: Sarah Chastain