The Queen of Fashion Weeks, London Takes the Crown
London Fashion Week came with many surprises, leaving everyone in anticipation for the future of fashion in London and what British fashion actually means. And for many, the reshaping and craft exemplified across brands and designers was finally the coming home that they were waiting for: British fashion that reflects a modern, true Britain.
Wearability, craft, form, details and modernity was seen across the runway, feeling fresh and exciting and creating something reflective of British fashion today in the heart of London from February 17 to 21. Across the runway, there were many odes to Dame Vivienne Westwood with grunge and rebellion inspired looks as her loss lingers on among designers and attendees.
Here are the designers, looks and trends that stood out, making London Fashion Week this season's underdog.
Erdem Autumn/Winter 2023, Look 38 // Photo Credit: Spotlight
Erdem continued to bloom and solidify his place on the runway playing with blacks, greens, purples and yellows—much reflective of Burberry’s color palette this season too—alongside a full collection filled with tulle and embroidery. Erdem created an effortlessly feminine, delicate and modern collection that felt darker while also being uplifting and light.
If you want to know more about the behind the scenes of the Erdem show and his story as a designer, check out this great Vogue podcast episode.
Dilara Findikoglu, Autumn Winter 2023 // Photo Credit: Cameron Smith
Dilara Findikoglu was one of the most anticipated and talked about shows of London Fashion week. Dilara is a Turkish-British designer just like Erdem, and has made her shows the most exciting and sought-after in recent seasons. Her collection was ultra-feminine and sensual rooted in ideals of female sexuality and liberation, made for the female gaze. Much like Nensi Dojaka, she makes lingerie-esque ready-to-wear contemporary designs that empower the wearer. With an emphasis on sheer textiles, body jewelry, metal and cutouts, Dilara’s Autumn Winter collection inspired everyone. reflecting the feminine and darker side of London.
Simone Rocha Autumn/Winter 2023, Look 32 // Photo Credit: Indigital
Simone Rocha, Autumn/Winter 23, Close Up // Photo Credit: Ben Broomfield
Simone Rocha continued to stun, bringing everything to the table this season. This collection is rooted in Irish sensibility and draws upon bows, velvet, lace and puffy silhouettes. All the details exemplified haute couture craft and art, but also a meeting point where soft meets dark in silhouettes, textiles and fashion.
JW Anderson, Autumn/Winter 2023, Look 7 // Photo Credit: Indigital
JW Anderson kept with his efforts for wearability and accessibility. Contemporary designs met rebellion for a very urban, angsty Brit with various styles and textiles but overall rooted in appealing to the modern, urban customer.
Richard Quinn Design // Photo Credit: Luke Walker
Richard Quinn had a performative and stimulating runway with overwhelming patterns, florals, exaggerated silhouettes and massive suits. Rosettes and florals were something seen across designers including Emilia Wickstead but had emphasis here with Richard Quinn. Details in sequins and pearls were also apparent, showing truth to real artisanship and consciousness in design.
Burberry, Fall Ready-to-Wear 2023, Look 28 // Photo Credit: Burberry
Burberry, Fall 2023 Ready to Wear, Look 1 // Photo Credit: Burberry
Burberry had the most eyes on them this season since the company is under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee. As a brand, Burberry is quintessentially British, and this redirection was possibly the most significant homage to British life on the runway this season. It returned to tartan patterns, dramatic coats and the likeness of ducks and wellies but reimagined in a modern, bold way in shades of deep green, purple and blue.
Emilia Wickstead, Fall 2023, Look 39 // Photo Credit: Daniele Oberrauch
Emilia Wickstead, Fall 2023, Look 15 // Photo Credit: Daniele Oberrauch
Emilia Wickstead brought forth a feminine version of grunge. There was a level of softness with the surreal, fitted sweaters and dramatic coats alongside plaid and floral prints. Wickstead capitalized on clean silhouettes and muted greens, oranges and pinks but followed suit on an emphasis on flowers for fall and work wear attire as well as wearability, as seen across the runway this season. Emilia Wickstead uniquely made utilitarian, urban feels inherently feminine and soft and found out ways to make the color black uniquely hers in her designs among her diverse collection.
London stood out this season from Erdem to Anderson to Wickstead. All designers seemed to focus on something new and fresh while being appropriately English and speaking to a modern audience as well as a modern Britain. London has returned to the fashion week throne and will be the city to watch—Fashion is coming home.
Sources:
Dolan, Leah, and Fiona Sinclair Scott. “London Fashion Week Highlights: Baby Bumps, Inflatable Trousers and Theatrical Performances.” CNN, Cable News Network, 22 Feb. 2023, https://www.cnn.com/style/article/london-fashion-week-fall-winter-2023-highlights/index.html.
Lau, Susanna. “In London, Heaven and Earth.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 21 Feb. 2023, https://www.businessoffashion.com/reviews/fashion-week/richard-quinn-erdem-simone-rocha-london-ready-to-wear-autumn-winter-2023/.
Paton, Elizabeth. “What We Saw at London Fashion Week.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 22 Feb. 2023, https://www.nytimes.com/2023/02/22/style/london-fashion-week-simone-rocha-richard-quinn.html.
“Phil Oh's Best Street Style Photos from the Fall 2023 Shows in London.” Vogue, Vogue, 21 Feb. 2023, https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/phil-ohs-best-street-style-photos-from-the-fall-2023-shows-in-london.
Spedding, Emma. “10 Easy London Fashion Week Outfits You Can Wear This Weekend.” Vogue, 23 Feb. 2023, https://www.vogue.com/article/london-fashion-week-street-style-outfits-2023.
Syrett, Alison. “London's Built-in Jewelry Trend Makes Getting Dressed to Go out so Easy.” The Zoe Report, The Zoe Report, 21 Feb. 2023, https://www.thezoereport.com/fashion/london-fashion-week-fall-winter-2023-trends.
Written by Trinity Gates
Copyedited by Mariana Mejia
Graphic by Sophie Difusco