The History of Vivienne Westwood

Perhaps one of the most iconic designers of all time is Vivienne Westwood. From her contributions to England’s punk rock scene to her recognition by Queen Elizabeth, Westwood’s impact on the world of fashion cannot be understated. Despite her controversial beginnings, she was able to forge a name for herself as one of the most iconic fashion designers of all time. Rising from the heart of punk London in the 1970’s, she has risen to international fame for not only her iconic brand, but also her unapologetic uniqueness.

Westwood was born on April 8, 1941 in the small town of Glossop, England. She by no means grew up in a life of luxury. In fact, Westwood didn’t truly experience art culture until her marriage with Malcolm Mclaren in 1967. During this time, Westwood worked as a teacher and made jewelry on the side. In 1971, Mclaren opened a clothing shop in London and Westwood was able to contribute her designs to this boutique. This shop was renamed five times, finally landing on “The World’s End”, and still holds this name today. The World’s End soon became a focal point of the London punk movement, creating controversial ripped clothing with rebellious graphics and slogans. When Mclaren became the manager for the Sex Pistols, Westwood was the one that dressed them, though she rebranded soon after their disbandment.

In Fall/Winter 1981 Paris Fashion Week, Westwood and Mclaren released their first collaborative collection named ‘Pirates’. This show was an immediate hit, quickly growing Westwood’s notoriety as a fashion designer. ‘Pirates’ was inspired by Native American patterns and much of the clothing was free from the constricting silhouettes of the 1970s, establishing recognition as the first punk catwalk. After this duo divorced in 1980, they remained professional partners for five more years. During this time, Westwood developed her independent identity as an upcoming designer and released her first solo collection for Spring/Summer 1984.

Westwood’s early solo releases are easily characterized by her use of tartan and parodies of the upper class, creating what some call ‘Tatler’ girls. In fact, Vivienne herself appeared on the cover of Tatler magazine in 1989 dressed as Maragaret Thatcher, echoing the parodies that seemed to dominate this era in her career. In her Spring/Summer 1985 show, Westwood introduced the “Mini-Crini”, marking a turning point in her career. This design combines the Victorian crinoline skirt with the modern mini-skirt construction, becoming one of her most famous garments. Westwood’s iconic orb logo was created in her ‘Harris Tweed’ show, and is now one of the most-recognizable logos in the fashion world. In 1992, she was awarded with the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth in Buckingham Palace, which she famously showed up commando to. Nevertheless, this recognition truly solidified her place as one of the greats of her time.

Westwood continued to release iconic collections during the 1990s, including the Fall/Winter 1993 show named ‘Anglomania’ in which she released the famous McAndreas tartan. Although, this show is likely most easily known as the show that Naomi Campbell famously fell in, creating an unforgettable moment in fashion and an even more unforgettable picture. Westwood continued forging a name for herself, continuing her international expansion with the opening of Vivienne Westwood boutiques in Tokyo and New York.

In the last stretch of her career, Westwood continued to grow her brand, but started participating more in social activism. “Climate change, not fashion, is now my priority” she stated in 2014, and her shows reflected this notion. Her Spring/Summer 2013 show was titled ‘Climate Revolution’ and her Autumn/Winter 2013 show was titled ‘Save the Arctic’. Almost all of her clothing released during this time had underlying messages that reflected her political beliefs.

Vivienne Westwood passed away on December 29, 2022, leaving behind an unforgettable legacy. From her punk-inspired roots to her later years in environmental advocacy, her fearless individuality has carved new paths for the world of design. Her designs will continue to live in infamy, inspiring new designers in the industry. Westwood has cemented herself as one of the most influential fashion designers in history, ensuring that her impact will be echoed in generations to come.

References:

The story so far. Vivienne Westwood®. (n.d.-b). https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en-us/westwood-world/the-story-so-far/

Borrelli-Persson, L. (2021, May 17). Why the swagger of Vivienne Westwood’s 1981 pirate collection resonates 40 years on. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/article/the-pirate-look-in-fashion-1981-2021

Gordon, N. (2020, April 26). Naomi Campbell shares a clip of her iconic 1993 catwalk fall on Instagram. Harpers Bazaar. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/celebrities/news/a32278838/naomi-campbell-catwalk-fall/

Graphic by Nyelle Royal