The Big Deal about the Little Black Dress

“Discreet yet essential, minimalistic yet elegant, obvious yet sophisticated.” This quote from the book titled “Chanel: Collections and Creations” describes the little black dress perfectly. This classic, first popularized by Chanel in 1926, still remains a closet go-to for women around the world. Maybe you even have that special black dress in your wardrobe that is flawless for any occasion. This timeless piece developed by the acclaimed fashion designer, Coco Chanel, was unique for its time – not just in relation to fashion trends, but in society as well. Chanel was known for taking existing garments and restyling them to her own liking. She produced groundbreaking designs in fashion history, and her journey to creating the most exquisite and iconic pieces has inspired countless artists in her wake.

Coco Chanel, originally Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, was born in a hospice on August 19, 1883 in Saumur, France. It may appear as if Chanel lived a life of luxury during the height of her career; however, her childhood was quite the opposite. Her mother, Jeanne DeVolle, conceived her out of wedlock and passed when Chanel was a child. Additionally, her father abandoned her, forcing Chanel to live at Sisters of the Sacred Heart, a Catholic orphanage in Aubazine, France. When she was 18, she left the orphanage and began her career in the fashion world. Although Chanel had a small beginning and a grief-stricken childhood, this newfound independence would lay the foundation of her iconic image and design in fashion.

Chanel soon began working as a sales assistant at the Maison Grampayre shop in Moulins, a commune in central France. At the same time, she was employed as a cafe singer – another one of her many talents. One of the most popular songs Chanel performed, “Qui qu'a vu Coco,?” is thought to have given her the famous nickname “Coco.” Through her work at the cafe, Chanel was connected to various fashion executives such as Étienne de Balsan, the son of textile entrepreneurs. Balsan later became her first romantic partner as well as her financier. As

she developed acquaintances with the women in Balsan’s company, these women began to recognize Chanel’s knack for hat-making. Soon thereafter, the demand for her hats skyrocketed, propelling her move to Paris in 1908. Chanel later moved to Deauville in 1914 to open up her very first shop, with the official opening occurring in 1916. Shortly after, she opened up a high fashion showroom in Biarritz. Chanel’s rise to popularity happened quickly, particularly due to her avant-garde designs. Her sporty silhouettes juxtaposed the corsets and crinolines of the era, hinting at a shift toward more functional pieces. Chanel thought this was perfect for women, as the restricting fit of these outdated garments had immobilized their bodies. This new innovation contrasted with the fashion of the times and sparked her conception of the timeless classic: the little black dress.

While attending an opera, Chanel recounted the new innovation, as she began to detest the hues of red, green, and blue. Chanel declared she would clothe women in black because its color diminished everything else around them. For the era, black was viewed as a color of mourning and poverty; however, Chanel perceived its simplicity as elegant and chic. Her rival, Paul Poiret, crafted extravagant designs that were illustrated by vibrant colors, which led to Chanel claiming that the richer a dress is, in terms of color and style, the poorer it becomes. Further, Chanel felt that no design was more complex than a little black dress. She knew that women needed and desired a dress that was affordable yet stylish, and the little black dress was just that, as it functioned “like a canvas that could easily be accessorized (Anderson).”

Chanel first sketched a black dress design in 1912 but did not make its official debut until 1926. It featured a chemise with long sleeves made of crepe de Chine, a V-shaped pleat down the middle of a bloused top and a skirt accessorized with a cloche hat and pearls. This design first appeared in American Vogue in October 1926. Her sketches were first inspired by the Parisian

employees she observed who were cloaked in black dresses with white collars and cuffs. Chanel later added white trim for collars, flowers, cuffs, and pearls to highlight the sleek, black dress. Simplicity was one of Chanel’s critical values within her clothing brand, aiding the dress’s success in becoming a classic. The little black dress was able to evolve with time while still possessing its classy aesthetic. Chanel was one of the first designers to produce a garment that could be used for both day and evening wear. It was tagged as the “Ford dress” because it was easily accessible, black, and simple. Although it was mostly well received, Chanel’s little black dress was deeply criticized by male journalists claiming that it hid a woman’s body. However, Chanel viewed her little black dress design as one that freed women from confining garments and tight societal expectations.

Coco Chanel passed away on Jan. 10, 1971, at the Hotel Ritz in Paris, France at the age of 87. She never stopped imagining and reflecting on her idea that “a woman can be overdressed, but never over elegant” (Anderson, 2020). She never let society stop her from reaching her dreams and pursuing her passion for fashion design. Chanel redesigned the color black – from one of mourning and poverty to one of timelessness and elegance, much like her own life. Even today, her signature phrase rings true – “fashion passes, but style remains.”

Sources

Anderson, Cheryl. (2020, October 25). Coco Chanel-the little black dress: Classic chicago magazine. Classic Chicago Magazine - Classic Chicago magazine is an online weekly online publication.

https://classicchicagomagazine.com/coco-chanel-the-little-black-dress/

Redaelli, L. (2023, July 3). The history of Coco Chanel - Coco Chanel Gabriella

Chanel history no 5 fashion timeline. L’Officiel USA.

https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gabrielle-chanel-history

Written By Savanna Waddell

Copyedited by Helen Sorme

Graphic By Grace Grant