Sarah Burton Parts Ways with Alexander McQueen

After over two decades working at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton has left the London fashion house, departing from her position as the brand's creative director. Succeeding McQueen, Burton had almost impossibly large shoes to fill. However, she exceeded expectations, successfully carving a name for herself in the industry while paying tribute to her predecessor's legacy. With her departure from the brand, Burton leaves an incredible, unforgettable impact on the fashion world.

"I am immensely grateful to Sarah, and I want to personally thank her for her work over the past two decades, first alongside Lee Alexander McQueen, where her role was instrumental to his success, and then as the Creative Director since 2010," François-Henri Pinault expressed, "Through her own experience, sensitivity, and talent, Sarah continued to evolve the artistic expression of this iconic House. She continued Lee's heritage, attention to detail, and unique vision while adding her personal, highly creative touch."

Burton joined the brand in 1996 as a student intern upon receiving a recommendation from one of her professors at Central Saint Martins. She quickly became close to McQueen, serving as his first and only assistant. They worked alongside each other, creating iconic designs worn by some of fashion's most elite, and in 2000, McQueen made Burton the head of womenswear. In 2010, tragedy struck the fashion world when news revealed that McQueen had committed suicide following the death of his mother. Succeeding such an adored and praised designer such as Alexander McQueen sounded unimaginable. However, there seemed to be a unanimous line of thought that Burton was the only natural choice to continue his legacy. Burton was officially named creative director of the brand in 2010 and has proved to be a remarkable addition to the fashion house ever since.

Burton's most iconic work, designed after being creative director for just one year, was the wedding dress of Kate Middleton in 2012. Alexander McQueen was chosen to design this dress because of "the beauty of its craftsmanship and its respect for traditional workmanship and the technical construction of clothing," as said by the Royal Palace. This ivory lace wedding gown featured a 9-foot train and floral patterns, with a skirt mimicking the opening of a flower and hand-embroidered motifs of the rose, daffodil, thistle, and shamrock. The designer of Middleton's dress was kept secret until the day of the wedding, and following the reveal, sales for the brand rose 29%. Burton's craftsmanship and design in creating this garment have solidified this work as one of the most unforgettable dresses of all time.

Burton's final show for Alexander McQueen was this past Sept. 30 during Paris Fashion Week. It was dedicated "to the memory of Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team." This show, titled "Anatomy II," highlighted Burton's ability to honor house codes in a way that expresses her unique style. In this final collection, she showcased female strength and the female form, with values true to herself and the late McQueen.

Kaia Gerber opened the show in a tailored black dress, with cutouts at the shoulders and bodice and the spine laced up with red cord, and Naomi Campbell closed in a stunning, silver open-heart corset and a draped, beaded skirt. The looks in between Gerber and Campbell were remarkable, representing Burton's artistry and commitment to honoring women. The female form was emphasized with sculpted hips, sharp tailoring, and cutouts that revealed bras or corsets. The iconic rose motif was present in multiple garments throughout the show, taking the form of a maxi dress silhouette printed on slip dresses and painted on a leather dress. Various techniques and silhouettes were used, from precisely tailored coats to long, ruffled dresses to blazers and corsets with cutouts to empower and accentuate the female form.

At the show's finale, Naomi Campbell was seen wiping tears from her eyes as she presented the final look of the collection, and she was not the only one seen without dry eyes after seeing Burton's final collection for the fashion house. As Burton emerged from backstage, she was awarded a standing ovation, giving her final bow and bringing her time at Alexander McQueen to a close.

"I am so proud of everything I've done and of my incredible team at Alexander McQueen," Burton voices, "They are my family, and this has been my home for the past 26 years. I want to thank François-Henri Pinault for believing in me and offering me this amazing opportunity. Above all, I want to thank Lee Alexander McQueen. He taught me so much, and I am eternally grateful to him. I look forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me."

Sources

Twersky, C. (2023, September 11). Sarah Burton will show her final collection for Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week. W Magazine. https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/sarah-burton-exits-alexander-mcqueen-creative-director

Mower, S. (2023, September 30). Alexander McQueen spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen#review

Written by Madeleine Douglass

Copyedited by Katherine Fivgas

Graphic by Sheena Deepak