Highlights of New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week has officially ended and with that, new opinions have been formed as well as new expectations for these designer brands. While I have personally looked through each collection (despite the new Vogue Runway paywall), I want this article to focus on standouts of the week both positive and negative.

First, I want to start off with what I believe is the most improved since last year. I give this superlative to Tory Burch. If you keep up with fashion, I am sure you have seen everyone buzzing about this season's collection in the industry. What makes this collection better than last year in my opinion is its cohesion and silhouette simplicity. Last year, Tory Burch tried their hand at these sort of trench coats that were quite unflattering with an odd material that made the silhouette appear frumpy on the models. However this year, Tory Burch stuck to clean lines, sheath silhouettes, and light fabrics perfect for spring and this new era of simplicity that it seems NYFW has declared. Personally, I loved their collection and am excited for it to be gaining traction (a Tory Burch Renaissance, if you will).

Photo/Vogue/Tory Burch SS25 Photo/Vogue/Tory Burch SS26

Next, I have best styling to Elena Velvez for her edgy, science fiction, punk look on all of her models. While the clothes are fabulous as well, Elena is able to create a full image of who her client is without feeling too costumey or cliche. As well as that, I loved all the headpieces she put on her models with the bonnets juxtaposing the unconventional beauty and clothing. I love when designers do this because it allows more creativity and theatrics on the runway yet at the end of the day you can look at the individual pieces and imagine an everyday person wearing them. Or, you can dress them up as eccentric as the models are.

Now unfortunately we have hit a downer and I must reveal the collection I was most disappointed at. It pains me to say this, truly, but Ralph Lauren left me totally underwhelmed. It sounds like blasphemy to even write this as someone that prides themselves on replicating Ralph Lauren’s styling or more so the lifestyle of the women this designer has created but it must be said. To be honest when I first clicked on the collection I thought it must have taken me to the wrong one but alas, I was incorrect. The first issue I took to it or rather a question I asked myself was, “Red?” Not that Ralph Lauren is immune to using red but we are used to seeing very western inspired colors like turquoise, browns, and desert rose. And the more I scrolled I realized red was the only accent color, which quite frankly, is boring. I mean white black and red has been done before, and certainly I do not see why Ralph Lauren would think this is “what’s in” or what should be in. As well as that, he just doesn’t play with any innovation in this collection and it is a little reminiscent of a J. Crew catalog, in fact half of the clothing I am sure I already own a doppelganger of. Oh and the hats, they do not add anything to the look. The overall problem in this collection is that I do not know who this woman is that he is designing for. Some said it was very “American dream” but I found it quite the opposite, and almost a mere mockery of Parisian styles. I am also comparing this however to last year's knockout collection that blew me away in typical Ralph Lauren style. Hopefully I will feel more favorable towards his fall collection.

On a lighter note, I wanted to reveal my favorite collection which is Kim Shui. With her frequent use of silks and styling with lace capris as well as ruffles and sheer fabrics, the designer displays a perfect representation of sensible sensuality. I personally love this sort of old school bohemian style making an appearance in many collections this week and Kim Shui just nails it. While Kim Shui also jumped on the trend of brown being the new spring color, she still used intentional accent colors throughout the collection to youthen it up such as mint greens, baby blues, and a sunset orange. To be honest, I was disappointed with a lack of color in a lot of this week's shows. Monochromatic looks seem to be in and while I do love a little black dress, I miss seeing more color on the runway and was pleased to see Kim Shui fill this need. I only have three photos displayed below but I highly recommend looking over the whole collection as there is something for everyone while staying cohesive and innovative. Kim Shui also utilized reptile skin (not quite sure whether real or faux) in a lot of pieces without overwhelming the garment. I find that a striking green snake skin can be hard to pull off but Shui does it well mixing softer lace and ruffles with the pieces so it does not come off as medusa-esque. The sleeves she typically uses on her tops and dresses as well are reminiscent of peasantry times which seems to be facing a resurgence in the industry and I think it communicates a perfect balance of femininity as well as power and confidence in her looks. Overall, I can see many different subcultures of people styling these pieces that push boundaries yet remind us of a familiar time of sensual modesty.

Finally, I wanted to recommend a few more collections that are definitely worth looking at if you are interested in up and coming fashion. I thought Calvin Klein's collection was a new look we have not seen from the designer yet, and I always love a classic fringe in pieces. Anna Sui also did a great take on the bohemian style with prints and silhouettes I adored, it was definitely a second place spot for my favorite collection. On the other hand, I found Sandy Liang, who I normally favor tremendously, to have lacked focus and maturity in her collection that she achieved so greatly last year. However, we all have different tastes when it comes to fashion and it's up to you to decide for yourself what you want to take and what you want to leave from each collection. I for one am excited for the rest of fashion month and hopefully you are as well.

Photos/Vogue/Calvin Klein SS26/Anna Sui SS26/Sandy Liang SS26

Editor: Sydney Annis

Graphics: Sarah Rakoski