Fashion Controversies Through the Ages
Fashion, with its close ties to political and social influences can be weaponized as a form of freedom and rebellion against societal normsover the centuries. As women and other marginalized groups of people were controlled by policies and systemic measures, clothing too was seen as shackles to create a uniformed society. Marie Antoinette, the last Queen of France before the French Revolution, is an iconic figure who pushed these boundaries. Her frivolous beliefs and rebellion of traditional royal standards had sparked significant fashion contributions. One instance of her promiscuous fashion can be seen with her wearing a chemise in one of her Royal portraits. During this era, her dress was seen as a form of lingerie, and most importantly did not require her to wear a corset (scandalous!).
Although the corset origins can be traced all the way back to 1600 BCE, they did not gain prominence until the 17th century. These garments were brought to popularity through royalty. As all the hot noblewomen began cinching their waists and pushing their breasts up with their corsets, this too trickled down to middle class women—making it a long spread trend for women of all economic status. Corsets dominated for over a century, starting off being a representation of femininity, but with time, the corsets became oppressive.Women were being forced to wear corsets at all times despite the garment restricting breathing as well as giving bone and organ deformities. The corset, which was once worn by women to express femininity, was now being weaponized against them. What was turned into an unhealthy and unrealistic body standard was later referred to as the Corset Controversy.
Fashion controversy did not end approaching the 20th century. The 1920s in America is largely remembered as a time of significant economic growth. With the economy growing, technology becoming more advanced, society naturally becomes more progressive. Women during this time were given more freedom. This was expressed with new fashion trends. Their makeup became brighter and bolder. Lipstick was being marketed as “kiss proof”, representing the sex-empowerment women were feeling for the first time. With women gaining more power and self-expression, these new trends were looked at as undignified by many others, especially men. In addition to bold makeup, women began to wear short skirts and short hair. Women wanted to escape the roles of feminization they were forced in. They no longer wanted to HAVE to have long hair, fluttery eyelashes,and long skirts only their husbands approve of. Women were starting to break free from the roles they were forced in. This was not agreeable with everyone. Many resented the new sex equality propaganda being pushed– I mean, how dare women get to choose what they wear!
The 1970s cannot go unnamed with the rise of politics, and the fashion statements that represent these movements. For centuries, fashion was deemed representative of social status and gender. People were expected to follow the guidelines of religion and societal assumptions, and as time has progressed this has allowed people to use fashion to represent themselves and their beliefs. The hippy movement, like flappers in the 1920s, rapidly emerged not only with new beliefs, but the culture of clothing and what it represents. Hippies at this time were associated with loose fitting clothes, tie-dye, funky patterns, and bell-bottoms– all representing their beliefs of peace and love. Tie-dye with its vibrant colors was used to represent individuality and nonconformity, a common motif within 1970s fashion. The political climate during this time was tense, and full of rebellion. One major fight during this time was for racial equality. This translated to black men and women wearing their hair natural as well as in afros to promote their heritage as well as emphasize their fight against white supremacy. With 2nd wave feminism on the rise, as well as LGBT rights fashion began to evolve. This was representative in friends as clothing became more androgynous. One gender scientist, known as Bem, came out with a scale called the Bem Sex-Inventory Index (BSRI) showing that people can have both feminine and masculine traits. Women were now wearing pants, and men were sparking controversy by wearing skirts and makeup. This all became more normalized despite its great testimony against normalcy and traditional identities. Many icons gave these movements a platform such as David Bowie, Alice Cooper, Prince, Freddy Mercury, and many others.
As the 60s and 70s established the radicalization of clothing and makeup, today's controversies can now focus on the virtue of the fashion industry and establish these beliefs from the inside. Social media and globalization has allowed for day-to-day people to call out different designers and brands for their problematic behavior. Issues such as cultural appropriation and misrepresentation can now be addressed as audiences are now on a global scale rather than a small-localized or regional area. In February of this year, designer Proenza Schouler was criticized for replicating hawaiian leis and selling them for over $1,500 a piece. We have also been able to hold the beauty and fashion industry accountable for upholding toxic beauty standards and promoting eating disorders. For instance, companies such as Abercrombie, Victoria Secret, and Brandy Mellvile have been attacked for using uniform representation of their models and the lack of plus-sized clothing they put out. This has allowed for the industry, in fear of criticism, to begin diversifying their company through racial and body diversity.
Despite its definition, controversy is necessary to hold the fashion industry accountable. Fashion goes hand and hand with social and cultural trends of the time it is important to note how progression and liberation can be synonymous with the identity of our clothing choices.
References:
Kayleigh, M. (2021, June 15). The 1960s-1970s: An Exploration of Androgyny in Men’s Fashion.
Danny P. (2022, December 26).The Year in Fashion Controversies.
https://www.glossy.co/fashion/the-year-in-fashion-controversies/
Alexa D. (2021, January 27). Praise-Worthy or Problematic? 7 Controversial Moments in Fashion History.
https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/7-controversial-moments-fashion-history
Jessie O. (2022, October 11). 1920s style: class, controversy, and liberation. https://www.findmypast.com/blog/history/1920s-styles
Grace G. (2024, January 7). How politics of the ’70s informed fashions of the time.
https://theboar.org/2024/01/how-politics-of-the-70s-informed-fashions-of-the-time/
Shreya J. and Anaisha D. (2022, February 1). The history behind corsets: how a piece of clothing sparked controversy, criticism and empowerment.
Kimberly A. (n.d.). What Made the Twenties Roar.
https://rainford.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/9.9-The-economic-boom-in-the-1920s.pdf
Written by Katya Read
Copyedited by Emily Arreola
Graphic by Kadyn Moore