A Focus on Anti–Fashion — Rouge Magazine

In a world where trends rose and fell at lightning speed, a countercultural movement called anti-fashion thrived in the shadows. More than simply a rejection of mainstream fashion, this movement challenged the very foundation of the fashion industry, defying traditional silhouettes, beauty standards, and colors. It embraced unconventional shapes, materials, and trends, shaping fashion into something more personal and raw. As society continues to bring into question the impact of mass production and fast fashion, anti-fashion stands as a reminder that true style is more than what is featured in the latest issue of Vogue.

Anti-fashion originated in the 19th century but gained much of its popularity in the 20th century with punk, grunge, and avant-garde movements. Vivienne Westwood was an early pioneer of the anti-fashion movement, creating garments as a method to showcase her defiance against societal norms in Britain during her time. Westwood was one of the first designers to showcase non-constricting silhouettes on the runway, shocking onlookers. She took inspiration from old styles and crafted them into something rebellious. Rei Kawakubo was another early anti-fashion designer who made an undeniable impact on this movement. Designing for Comme des Garçons, Kawakubo’s work featured dark hues, shapeless silhouettes, and deconstructed garments. Her clothing started a revolution, redefining the standard of feminine beauty and assuring that women did not need to feel attractive only when appealing to men. Yohji Yamamoto also took a similar approach to womenswear. At a time when bright hues were all the rage, Yamamoto embraced an edgy style and designed his clothes in almost all black. In a New York Times interview, he states that “All black says ‘I don’t bother you, you bother me.’”, a statement that rings true for the majority of designers in this movement.

Anti-fashion is near impossible to discuss without mentioning the Antwerp Six, a group of six fashion designers that trained at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts and revolutionized the fashion landscape in the 1980s. These designers consisted of Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Marina Yee, and Dirk Bikkembergs. The Antwerp Six took their inspiration from the punk and New Romantic movements in London and New York, incorporating different styles into their own works. Taking part in the Golden Spindle competitions in Japan was an instrumental step for these designers, as the competitions allowed them to experience the designs of Kawakubo and Yamamoto, but their biggest breakthrough was at London Fashion Week in March 1988. Already having some notoriety, the Antwerp Six showcased their collections and quickly gained traction from international press due to their experimental designs.

All of these designers used fashion to make a statement, challenging mainstream trends. Anti-fashion remains highly relevant in today’s fashion sphere, as consumers and brands alike push back against the commercialization of personal style. With growing concerns about the sustainability of the fashion industry, many are rejecting fast fashion in favor of curating a wardrobe that is true to them–a core principle of anti-fashion. Social media has amplified anti-fashion by giving visibility to those who disregard mainstream style, showing that authenticity and individuality often resonate more with audiences than polished perfection. In today’s society oversaturated with constantly-evolving trends, anti-fashion serves as both a critique and a form of creative liberty, redefining what it means to truly have style.

References:

Anti-fashion: An age of radical rebellion. Omnifinery. (2020a, October 27). https://omnifinery.com/editorial/fashion/anti-fashion-an-age-of-radical-rebellion

Google. (n.d.). Emergence. the Antwerp 6+1 - google arts & culture. Google. https://artsandculture.google.com/story/emergence-the-antwerp-6-1-momu/fAWhlnD6KqLGJg?hl=en

Nast, C. (1996, October 9). Ann Demeulemeester Spring 1997 ready-to-wear fashion show. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1997-ready-to-wear/ann-demeulemeester/slideshow/collection#56

Borrelli-Persson, L. (1992, March 23). Comme des Garçons fall 1992 ready-to-wear collection. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1992-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons

Graphic by Madeleine Carter